Up to standard slicing - Crocini - Food Store

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Up to standard slicing

Typically, most especially when overseas, we become homesick because we miss our cuisine.  In the same way, it often happens that - ignoring the advice of those who remained back home - we rush into the first delicatessen shop that sells homebred products, struggling in this way to curb our palate’s overpowering impulse.
Consequently, while standing in front of some succulent mortadella, with impatient reverence we request a hectogram of tastiness.  This is just enough to satisfy our whim.  However, in the process, the anticipation of tasting our beloved cold cuts begins to dwindle: the slices are too thick, the blade of the slicing machine is overheated, and the wrap is not greaseproof but a thin veil from which the slices will detach with difficulty once we are outside the shop.  Lastly, there is the shop assistant, who in an attempt to prevent slice surfaces from sticking onto each other, decides to pile them up tower-style.  This situation is anything but infrequent also back home.  It’s a diatribe that defends a flawless type of slicing where gourmets know that every type of salami or cold cut has its ideal type of cut.
Slicing is in fact not only a necessary practice, but a gastronomic “act” that is in essence: an art.  It unquestionably represents the ancient figure of the carver – that is, the person given the responsibility of cutting meats in a banquet - who held a prestigious role.      
 Slicing any type of salami correctly serves not only to exalt organoleptic characteristics but also aesthetic ones.  Slices that are too thick and irregular or too thin and ready to “crumble” are never beautiful.  Such treatment is even more outrageous if the salami type to be cut is prized.
Just as a wisely cut outfit suits anyone to perfection, good slicing brings out the qualities of any type of salami in an similar fashion, meeting in this way the demands of the palate and sight of every guest.  
Since a single universal slicing style does not exist, every type of salami requires a specific one.
For raw salami or those accentuating an anatomic conformation -such as seasoned prosciutto and culatello-the cut of choice must respect the structure of the piece and transversally follow the direction of the muscle fibres.  In more fatty pieces, the cut can be parallel.  The slices must be very thin so as to quickly ‘melt’ inside our mouths and allow the fully enjoyment of the flavour.  The good outcome of a thin slice is, in addition, proof of the optimum quality of the product.  In badly seasoned or prepared salami, thin slices do not maintain their elasticity but tend to break easily.
The slicing of raw stuffing salami types is different for every case.  This is because the following aspects must be taken into account:  texture, seasoning degree (factor which renders the salami type either soft or highly compact), diameter (because it guides the direction of the cut: oblique or “becco di clarino” for Cacciatore and Felino, and round for Milano types because their dimensions do not consent otherwise).  It is a good norm, in any event, for slices of salami to be thin (no thicker than a grain of pepper) and whole.  They must be cut with a long thin and sharp knife.  Also, one must ensure that the outer layer (made of intestine) detaches with ease from the inner contents. This is an indicator that guarantees perfect seasoning. 
For cooked stuffing salami-like mortadella-the procedure is similar to that of raw stuffing salami.  The slices must be very thin and cut from the apex.  While the current practice of presenting them diced is not fully shared by gourmets, this is the only method to evaluate their consistency which, in a product of quality, must be firm and compact.  Instead, for other types of cooked stuffing salami such as zampone and cotechino, the cut must aim at a thickness equivalent to the size of a finger.
Also, careful consideration must be given to cutting instruments departing from the premise that   optimal slicing will be performed by expert and knowledgeable hands.  They know how to give in to the “invitations” of the piece with a decisive and precise grip.  For this reason, the utensils to be used must be appropriate:  stainless steel knives have been revealed to be the best for this purpose.  Unlike old iron knives, these do not interact with the fat of the salami.  In this manner, an oxidation reaction resulting in the typical “ferrous” flavor can be prevented.
We also know that having a true “carver” is not always possible.  This is why we may need to rely on slicing machines.  However, it is important to keep in mind to wait for a few seconds after every cut.  The reason is that overheated blades may irreparably alter the flavor of the salami.  Nevertheless, it must be highlighted that for the slicing of particularly precious products of long seasoning times, still up to this date, the use of the knife is still essential.

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